Friday, April 17, 2020

11 Maruti Darshan - Ramdas Swami


11 Maruti – Jay Jay Raghuveer Samarth
Dhaval Ramtirthkar & Gangadhar Soppa

9th July 2018

The Prelude
I must’ve thought in multiples of 11 times about doing the 11 Maruti circuit. However, fate had destined it for me only in the month of June in the year 2018. I was working in Hyderabad and was supposed to visit Pune on 2nd weekend of July i.e. 14-15 July. As fate had planned, Sheetal’s Zurich visit got scheduled exactly on the same weekend and her coming to Pune got cancelled. That was a Maruti-sent opportunity for me. I immediately latched onto the chance and planned to do visit the much awaited Ramdas Swami sthapit 11 Maruti temples. Till now I was unable to find a suitable partner for this journey. But that day suddenly one name popped up in my mind, Soppa, my dear, ever-enthusiastic  trekking friend. Without delay I called him and without much fuss he set aside his home assignments and agreed to come along.

Again, fate intervened and I reached Pune in an unscheduled manner on 25th June 2018 itself. Immediately I called Soppa and checked if we can reschedule our 11 Maruti visits to next week i.e. 1st July. Again, true to his spirit, Soppa readily agreed. After much discussion and deliberation it was finally decided one day before that it was to be a 1 and a half day trip, from Saturday afternoon to Sunday night.

That Saturday
It was to be Soppa’s car as my car was in Mumbai and Baba would need his car due to the rainy season. As he had promised, his office work got over exactly at 3.10 pm and he called and asked me to come to Vadgaon Bridge on Sinhagad road.  I was at sea how to reach the place as I had never gone that side. Ola would’ve been expensive and I had no clue about public transport. But again Soppa came to the rescue and illuminated me on the exact route to take. AS per his directions, I took a bus from our home Chintamani Nagar to Swargate and from Swargate boarded a six-seater that dropped me directly to Vadgaon bridge. The whole journey was so quick and comfortable that I couldn’t believe my luck and I was standing at the end of the bridge at 4.20 pm.

Pawan Putra Hanuman ki Jai!
Soppa picked me up by 4.35 pm and thus began our maiden visit to the strategically built 11 Maruti temples by Ramdas Swami. Constant traffic till Satara slowed down our pace a tad bit. On the way we had planned to visit a 13th century step well at a place called Limb. However, Soppa was skeptical about getting accommodation at Chafal and wanted to reach early. Also, light had started fading by the time we passed Limb so we dropped the plan. By 7.00, just as darkness started engulfing the daylight, we reached Chafal and successfully parked the car and ourselves at the famous Ram Mandir at Chafal. The roads were wet and the lush greenery on either side of the road indicated that the rains had made their presence felt in this fertile land.



Chafal – Das Maruti and Veer Maruti (Dated 1648)
As we reached Chafal and parked our car, we could hear the bells sound of Arati from the temple. We hurried to the chalk-white Ram temple in order to attend the Arati. 8-10 people were present there and the arati went on for 15 minutes. After a brief inspection of the beautiful temple from the inside, Soppa and I made our way out.

Ram Mandir, Chafal

Ram Mandir entrance steps, Chafal

Just as we climbed down the stairs on the backside of the Ram temple, we came face to face with Das Maruti, standing with folded hands towards the Ram statue in front. We too folded our hands and  paid our respect to Maruti Raya and Ramdas Swami in the same go. The Das Maruti temple is one of the two Samarth sthapit Maruti temples at Chafal and both are located within the Ram temple complex.


As we were inspecting the temple surroundings, I noticed the temple watchman kaka. I immediately asked him about accommodation facility and to our relief he said that the temple has a Vishramgruh and we can stay there. The Vishramgruh apart, there is no other accommodation facility in entire Chafal as it’s a small, scenic village nestled in the lap of mighty Sahyadris. We immediately booked a room,  paid Rs.350 for the night and dumped our meager luggage in the room.

The humble, ever helpful watchman of Ram Mandir, Chafal

Next was our dinner arrangement. Watchman kaka called up the canteen person and confirmed dinner for 2 which was to be ready at 9 pm since the canteen guy as out in the fields. Stay and food settled, we proceeded to the Veer Maruti temple which is located in isolation some 300 metres away from the Ram temple. Here the Maruti statue had him standing with hand raised to his forehead, as if saluting. This was an aggressive pose. There were oil stains near the Garbhagruha as people offer oil to Maruti on Saturdays.
Veer Maruti Temple (within Ram Mandir, Chaphal)
Beautiful greenery around the Veer Maruti Temple
Even at night, there were people coming to this Veer Maruti temple

By now it was dark but to our luck it was full moon day, maybe the second day after Pournima. Even at that hour, people from Chafal had come for Veer Maruti darshan and even youngsters were religiously completing many pradakshinas. Since the temple was a height, we could see the outlines of the fields around it. Soppa and I decided to sit and chat in the darkness on the wall surrounding the Veer Maruti temple. After some time we again went down to the Ram temple and began our 2nd round of appreciating the beautiful temple and clean surroundings. That’s when I discovered that there was another entrance to the temple than from where we came. Actually that new entrance was the main village side entrance. Since it was dark we could only see that there were some shops after we climbed down the many steps. On the left hand side, just outside the main entrance, there was a circular bastion attached to the temple. This clearly denoted that the temple was at risk from the Mughals in those times and was fortified enough to protect it. There was a small platform from where the village below was visible. Soppa and I sat down there appreciating the silence of the village and the engulfing nature all around us. We discussed about village life, the bastion and Soppa shared his childhood experiences in his village. After some time the watchman came to inform us that dinner was ready half an hour early than informed. Good for us. We proceeded towards the Canteen, fixing in our minds to explore this new entrance in daylight the next morning.

The canteen was nice and clean and the dinner, though not extravagant, was hot and delicious. Post dinner we decided to take a walk in the Chafal village. Before we left, Soppa expressed his desire for hot coffee. The canteen owner readily agreed and said that by the time we came back from the walk he’ll keep coffee ready. “But be back before 10 pm because that’s when we close”, he cautioned us. We stepped outside the canteen and as we started approaching the village road in pitch darkness we heard the village dogs barking. Neither of us two wanted to face angry village dogs so we retraced our steps back to Veer Maruti temple and sat there in complete peace with not a soul around.
Since dogs was the reason for our change of plan, I narrated an event to Soppa about our Vasota trek experience and our encounter with village dogs. It goes like this. We had rode on motorcycles from Pune to Bamnoli, base village on the other side of Koyna dam waters. By the time we reached Bamnoli it was past midnight, 2 am. The village at that time was just a lane with shops lined on either side. The moment we reached, a pack of 15-20 dogs got up from their sleeping position and started barking furiously, baring their fangs at us. None of us 8-10 trekkers dared to put a step forward. Before we realized Ritin confidently walked towards the dogs and went and stood in between them. Unbelievably the dogs suddenly stopped barking as if they had submitted to Ritin.

We went on talking, sharing experiences in the calm, serene environment. Though time crawls in such conditions, we realized that it was already 10 pm and we rushed to have our fill of hot coffee. It was getting cold outside as we were engulfed by farms and mountains, and it was monsoon time.

10th July 2018
Sleep in the basic Vishramgruha at Chafal was peaceful but short. There was no rush at the common bathrooms as we two were the only ones staying in the entire Vishramgruh, owing to monsoon time. We got up at 4.30 am to get ready for the 5.30 am arati at the Ram Temple. The arati had just three people, the watchman and we both. The pujari was an elderly person with unclear diction. We could hardly understand his words as he kept on reciting sholkas one after the other. This went on till 6 am till the arati concluded. By now two more elderly ladies from the village had joined us and they stayed back in the temple reciting Ram Ram Ram for quite some time.

Slowly darkness parted and light made its way to make photography possible for me. Soppa wanted to leave early by 6.30 am and had planned to reach Masur by 7-7.30. However, the photographer didn’t want to miss capturing memories.

Samarth Gufa
As I was clicking photos we noticed the Samarth Gufa which we were not able to experience  the previous night. We were not to let go of this opportunity and entered the gufa enclosure. Now this is not a gufa (cave) like any other caves in the mountains. This is a man-made cave that’s underground. Soppa had an idea to capture our descent in the cave on video. Soppa went down first, trying different positions to squeeze himself down the narrow passage with high steps. I was holding his mobile, recording his wriggling. He climbed down the 3-4 steps and stood in the first level. I handed him the mobile and followed his wriggling to descend. It was completely dark inside, barring our mobile torch. There were mentions that this area could seat 4  people and there was another level down that was big enough to seat just two people. It is here that Shivaji Maharaj and Ramdas Swami used to sit and discuss secret matters and plan their next actions in complete seclusion.


Narrow entrance to Samarth Gufa

As a natural reaction we looked around to see the opening from where to go further down, but located none. Second round of inspection followed and Soppa pointed to a tiny opening at the bottom of one wall. It was so small that I wondered how a person can pass from it. Soppa took the lead while I showed the light (mobile). He lay down flat on his back and slowly slipped inside by descending two more steps. I soon followed the same way and now we both were semi-sitting in the small stone enclosure two levels beneath the ground. I wondered aloud as to how a muscular person like Ramdas swami, who used to exercise heavily could sit in this tiny enclosure, that too along with another person, Shivaji Maharaj. At least I didn’t see any possibility. And yet one more time, I from the 21st century, found it simply impossible to fathom life, people and the possibilities way back in the 17th century.
Sitting there with barely any inch space to move, we shone the mobile light around on the charcoal black stone enclosure. In that brief second, I notice a few spiders crawling on wall, obviously disturbed by our presence. I decided not to focus on them as anyways it was dark and it was not possible to see anything around.

After experiencing the thrill for a few more moments, we made our way up, minding our heads as we climbed up. Back at ground level we, rather I, continued my photography as Soppa indulged in some selfies. We made our way to the main village side entrance of the Ram Temple and inspected in details the four bastions of the temple which we had vaguely seen in the dark the previous night.

Village side entrance to Ram Mandir, Chafal

See the bastion outside the entrance. Such bastions surround the temple on all 4 sides.

Finally we decided to move on at 7-7.30 am, not without a selfie with the watchman who had politely and smilingly helped us all along.


 Khadicha Maruti, Shinganwadi – (Dated 1649)
After taking darshan of the two Marutis at Chafal we headed to Khadicha Maruti temple which is very close to Chafal temples. The temple is situated on a small hillock and the path is winding and there is no tar road in the last few hundred meters patch. But no problem as such. The temple was locked and there was not a soul in sight so we took darshan from behind the locked doors. Here too the Maruti idol was standing with hand to its head, but the idol was surrounded by cheap white tiles. Fortunately, the superb location  of the temple made us ignore the gory details. We spent the next few moments appreciating the green beauty around us and hearing the incessant call of peacocks from the thick tree cover all around us. The temple is surrounded by mountains which were covered with a thick green blanket. I closed my eyes and stood there for a few seconds and just took in the pristine nature, the cacophony of various bird calls, the sound of the wind, the smell of fresh grass, the dampness of the mist and everything around it.

Shinganwadi Maruti Temple on a small hillock

While we were winding our way down to our next Maruti darshan we saw a sophisticated looking young man walking in the fields brimming with fertile black soil, among the green painted trees. But he was walking with his head down and looking into the mobile, oblivious to the beauty nature had presented in front of him. We laughed at his misfortune and proceeded towards the the next Maruti Raya temple.


Majgaon Pratap Maruti – (Dated 1649)
Soon we reached the Majgaon Pratapi Maruti temple. It was an attractively painted temple with all 11 Maruti colourful red drawings adorning the outer wall. A group of elderly village folk were sitting outside the morning, soaking in the morning sunlight. We took darshan of Maruti raya, came out and sat next to the elderly junta. 

Majgaon Pratapi Maruti Temple







As we got chatting, they urged, rather insisted that we visit the newly constructed Vitthal temple that stood tall just opposite the Maruti temple. Soppa readily agreed and I followed him, not much interested in visiting a modern temple. True to today’s mindlessly constructed temples, this Vitthal temple had glazing tiles and all the trappings of modern sensitivity. However, at the entrance, I noticed a big sized bell that had Ganpati idols embossed all around it. Soppa noticed me appreciating the unique bell and decided to shed my ignorance by telling me that these type of bells are dye cast and not hand made as I was thinking. Nevertheless, that was the only good part about the ‘modern’ temple.

 


 While parking the car, I had noticed an old house standing near the Maruti temple. It had a peculiar name and a big board announcing that name ‘Dagadu Smruti’. I quickly captured that unique house and we moved on to our next Maruti.


Traditional Tilling-cum-Sowing machine still in use by farmers in the hinterland.

Umbraj Maruti - (Dated 1649)
The two Maruti temples at Chafal, the Khadicha Maruti temple and Majgaon Pratapi Maruti Mandir are all on the right side of the highway while coming from Pune. To go Umbraj Maruti we crossed the highway and entered the sleep village/town of Umbraj on the left side of the highway. Since it was early morning, around 8.30 am on a Sunday, all the shops were close and not many people were seen in the narrow bylanes of Umbraj. We enquired about the road in one such narrow gali and decided to park our car on the main road itself since the road leading to the temple was wide enough only for two-wheelers.

The Umbraj Maruti temple is a small but neat temple with pastel orange coloured walls and a rusting ‘patra’ shed. The ambience inside the temple was very soothing with orange coloured buntings crisscrossing the courtyard leading to the Marui garbagruha. Few bhakts kept trickling in to start the day with Maruti darshan before they embarked on their daily duties. The maruti idol here was draped in a saree/cloth and only his head was visible. I kept wondering the strange human reason behind this unnatural act. 

Saree-clad Maruti at Umbraj




Umbraj Maruti Temple

The unsuspecting and basic entrance of Umbraj Maruti Temple
After taking darshan we were on our way to our next Maruti raya.

Masur Maruti - (Dated 1645)
By the time we left Umbraj it was 9.00 am and Soppa was hungry for breakfast. We tried to find any good place in vain as there weren’t any good restaurants on the periphery of the town. We decided to find something on our way to Masur. While driving suddenly I noticed a huge, colourful Ganpati idol erected by the roadside, as if to bless the passing motorists for a safe journey ahead.
On our way we had our breakfast at a highway-side hotel that had just opened for the day.
As a result there was phenyl splattered across the floor and it reeked of the strong phenyl smell. Somehow we ate our pohe and idli and made our way out.
The Masur maruti temple is a bit inside and you have to go through narrow roads, but it’s easily accessible. On reaching I was disappointed to see the temple as it was made of all concrete and almost resembled a shop from the outside. 

Masur Maruti Temple

Masur Maruti Temple

Only the orange coloured ‘kalas’ gave it the feeling of a temple. Inside we met the pujari of the temple. He was a very old soul. On taking darshan as we were taking pradakshina, the old Pujari motioned me to come with him to a vintage house with small wooden door and wooden windows. To my amazement, there was the Samadhi of Shri Narayan Maharaj Ramdasi, a disciple of Ramdas Swami. The pujari was a disciple fo Shri Narayan Maharaj. The atmosphere inside was calm and serene as the old pujari went on doing his duties with shaking hands. We soon gently slipped out as we a lot to cover.

The aged Pujari showing us the samadhi of Shri Narayan Maharaj, a disciple of Swami Ramdas 

Shahapur Maruti - (Dated 1644)
This Maruti mandir is the last of the 7 Maruti temples in Satara district and very close to the Masur temple. The entrance to the temple is through narrow stone-walled corridor. The temple was neat and clean but the door to the garbhagriha was locked. So we had to take darshan from quite some distance. There were two unusual notice boards. One showed a big camera that was cut, means No Photography and the other one proclaimed that the temple belonged to Private Ownership and nothing should be kept in front the Maruti idol. I found both strange. Just because it was a private temple they had locked the door and not allowing bhakts to enter the garbhagriha. Alas, there was nothing that we could do so we proceeded for the pradakshina. 

Shahpur Maruti temple

Shahapur Pratap Maruti Temple

As we came to the right side of the temple I noticed a huge tree with mammoth trunks. Soppa immediately illuminated me and told me that it was a ‘Chinch’ tree. Thereafter he regaled me with stories of his childhood when he and his friends used to play ‘pakada pakade’ by climbing the tree and jumping down from it. And there I was, never ever climbed a tree and lacking the art to do so. Nevertheless, I thoroughly enjoyed Soppa’s memories as I took in the view of the majestic tree.

Goggle ‘Chakwa’
The easy part of our 11 Maruti journey ended here. The next two temples were located in Sangli district and were at some distance. We halted at a tea stall for further morning refreshment. While sipping on hot tea we enquired about the good route towards our next Maruti, Bahe Borgaon. The person there enthusiastically explained us the direction and specifically told us to avoid going through Islampur as it’ll land us in traffic and more time will be consumed. We, especially Soppa understood the directions or so we thought.

Till now we had switched on Google maps and were at the app’s mercy. Even at this moment Soppa fed the destination and the suggested route to Google map and we were on our way. We continued for half and hour and found that the route signs that the man at the tea tall had suggested were missing. However, google maps was showing the current route as the right route. We decided to go by google map and soon landed right where the man had warned us not to venture, right in the centre of Islampur.
We blamed our luck and again referred google map. It was still showing our route as the right route and now pointed left. By now I had lost my confidence in google maps. Even on quite a few occasion earlier, I had found google maps a tad bit untrustworthy. So I changed track and relied on asking people as that was often the best and most reliable option.

Now google maps showed left and the man at the corner said go right. Accordingly we went right and referred to google maps for further turns as we were heading towards the busy marketplace area. To our dismay Gmaps kept showing us the wrong way that took us further inside Islampur rather than lead us out. Finally after much asking around we somehow found our bearing and for once I decided to dump google maps app as it had served us no good, instead had weaved a web of wrong directions to suck a good 30 minutes out of our tight schedule.

Finally after couple of more bazaar driving we exited Islampur and started cruising towards the river bridge that marked the arrival of Bahe Borgaon. Soon we were engulfed in tall, green sugarcane crop lining both sides of the road. The sheer magnitude of sugarcane crop made us wonder about the prosperity of Sangli district, thanks to Krishna river.


Bahe Borgaon Maruti - (Dated 1651)

It was afternoon around 12 noon by the time we reached Bahe Borgaon bridge. We could see a temple across the bridge. We parked the car by the side as the rest of the journey was to be done by foot. No vehicle entrance on the narrow bridge. As we descended down to the bridge we found two-three hawker vans parked there. Soppa immediately mooted the idea of having ice-cream and we both enjoyed malai kulfi with the beautiful view of the multi-arched stone bridge on one side and the wide river flowing beneath it. After a brief photo session and lot of selfies on the big cement pod (dock) we headed to the temple.



Majestic arched bridge on Krishna river

The bridge is narrow enough to accommodate three people and it has no railings. Since the water level was not high it was not scary. The entire walk must be a km or so, but you don’t feel it as it goes by the river water, under the massive bridge and lastly through lush green tree cover. Soon we were on Ramling island.


The walk over mighty but pleasant  Krishna river

 After a 10 minute walk, we came to a temple on a small hillock/island. 

Beautiful walk lined with lush green nature



Entrance to Bahe Borgaon Ram Mandir (Maruti Mandir is located behind it)
We thought that this was Bahe Borgaon Maruti temple so excitedly climbed the steps only to realize that it was Ram Mandir.

Bahe Borgaon is near walwa, when Prabhu Shri Ramchandra was seating for Meditation, there was a big flood occured on River Krishna due to this the Meditation of Shri Prabhu Ramchandra would have been disturbed. At the same time to avoid the disturbance in the Meditation Shri Hanuman spread his both hands and obstructed the flow of river and diverted the path of river water on both side of his hands. This is an ancient heard story. Because of this one island was formed, where Idol of Shri Hanuman spreading both his hands and obstructing the river water is here and is a sacred and faith places for the devotees. Samarth Ramdas installed the Maruti idol here in 1651 behind the Ram temple. The temple is in an extremely pleasant and salubrious location. It is said that Ram and Laxman rested briefly in the village Bahe on their way back from slaying Ravan. It is also said that Samarth Ramdas was inspired to write the BhimRoopi Stotra filled with devotion while he was contemplating on this Maruti. Among all the eleven Maruti installed by Samarth, this Maruti is located at the most beautiful location. Along with the Maruti temple, there are many small islands and Samadhi located here. The Macchindra fort is located close by. The tome Krishan-Mahatma refers to this place as BahuKshetra (place of strength). Bahe’s Maruti is one of eleven established by Samarth Ramdas Swami. 
- Mahesh Patil (Bahe)


It was only after taking darshan we realized that the Maruti temple stood behind the Ram Mandir. It’s a small temple, more like a side temple with its door locked. We took darshan from outside and sat by the sides, under the shade of another huge tree that had grown up to the temple height. Monkeys were loitering on the trees, on temple ground and everywhere. Little surprise that Ramdas Swami installed Maruti idol at Bahe Borgaon, on this desolate, scenically blessed spot.

Bahe Maruti Temple (behind Ram Mandir)
Bahe Maruti



Where there is Hanuman temple, there sits his avatar

Soon we made our way back, again an entertaining walk over the bridge. As we were drinking water at the car, we met one motorcycle-borne local. We soon engaged in a happy banter. He said that rains have deserted this season otherwise the big bridge (from where we drove) would’ve been underwater. On asking, he showed us the way to reach our next Maruti raya temple.

32 Shirale Maruti - (Dated 1654)
This time, thankfully we dumped google maps and followed the man’s directions. After a bit of a drive we reached 32 Shirale Maruti temple, just next to the bus stand in 32 Shirale village. The first impression the temple gave was that of a mini-fort. A tall stone wall stood between us on the road and the temple a good 20 feet above us. One portion of the stone wall had collapsed and there was a board warning not to venture near it. We climbed the few tall stone steps and landed in front of the 32 Shirale Maruti temple, only to find it locked.

With this dilapidated wall standing, it would've been an imposing temple

32 Shirale Maruti Temple
If the temple is locked, call this number and someone from the Pujari family will come in 10 min. and unlock it.

I wanted to go inside the temple and had read on a blog that there is an entrance by the side of the temple. I explored the sides only to find the side entrance locked too. Frustrated to find everything locked we again came to the entrance door. On inspection I found a board above the door that mentioned the Pujari’s name (Deshpande) and mobile number. There were some houses just behind the temple. From experience I knew that the Pujari must be staying nearby in the houses behind the temple. So I immediately called the number mentioned. The Pujari was reluctant to come as it was around 2 pm, siesta time for village folk. However, on learning that we had come from Pune, he readily agreed. We waited for 10-15 minutes and true to his word a lady came with the key and opened the temple and left. Another handsome, middle-aged man joined us inside the temple. He must be the next generation Pujari and was wearing a blue coloured full shirt and trousers.

L- Deshpande Pujari  Centre- Dhaval  R - Soppa, my friend and companion
Finally we were inside the temple and immediately realized that it was a good decision to call the Pujari as the temple was worth seeing. The inside side walls and the semi-circular roof was all jet-black stone and not mindlessly dabbed with oil paint or plastered with cement. A beautiful Maruti idol stood in the ‘gabhara’. It was decorated with white, delicate prajakta flowers forming the boarder of the idol. Overall it was a beautiful temple and the young priest too was polite and ready to share information.

Unique inside structure of 32 Shirale Maruti Temple
After spending some time inside the temple, chatting with the Pujari we left for our next Maruti raya temple. The young Pujari readily guided us and told us about a short way to reach our next destination.


June Pargaon Maruti  - (Dated 1651)

As we were heading towards Pargaon, Soppa was feeling very hungry. We were already running a bit late and the clock showed an alarming 3.30 pm. Two more Maruti temples still remained of the legendary Ramdas Swami sthapit 11 maruti temples circuit. Post that we had planned to visit the museum of Hambirrao Mohit, the erstwhile General of Shivaji Maharaj at Talbid. The point is, there was no time to halt for lunch. Though Soppa was hungry I urged him to control his hunger and even chided him that he’s with a person who readily skips his lunches for the sake of travel. Soppa reluctantly dropped the plan of a hearty meal and instead settled for some chips and biscuits which we bought on the way.
Since now we relied on asking people, we reached Pargaon Maruti without any eventuality.Wait. How can that happen?
We had again resorted to Google baba in our last leg of the tour. We had left Sangli district behind and the last two temples were located in Kolhapur district. Since there were not many detours, google was working sanely. Soppa was driving and I was chatting with him. As it happened, I briefly removed my gaze from the mobile and in that instant we missed a left turn that we were supposed to take. That meant we missed a short cut and now had to go a few km ahead and take a detour back. Google had fined us in time for a momentary lapse in concentration. Barring those lost minutes, we reached the temple via a very bad road that led to the temple.

June Pargaon is a small village with dusty roads. The outside roof of the temple sported idols of Ramdas Swami flanked by two monkeys in each top corner of the temple. As we entered the temple we saw few people sleeping inside. They immediately got up on seeing us visitors in the temple. The Pargaon Maruti idol is the smallest amongst all 11 temple idols and there is no fanfare around the idol. The temple too was nothing worth noting, except the huge posters featuring Ramdas Swami and his teaching put up on the inner walls of the temple. 

June Pargaon Maruti Temple

June Pargaon Maruti

One of the elderly person inside the temple got chatting with us, asking us our name and discussing the weather and all. Since we were short on time we excused ourselves and headed straight for the last i.e. 11th Ramdas Swami sthapit Maruti raya temple.

Manpadale Maruti - (Dated 1651)
This temple was comparatively close to June Pargaon temple, 8 km. The time was almost 5 pm and we were on our last leg of the Samarth sthapit 11 Maruti temple tour. Sadly, we found the last Maruti temple at Manpadale was in a very bad condition. The outside wall of the temple wore a worn out look with paint peeled off at many places. The inside of the temple was not clean and children were playing inside the temple. I found it odd and didn’t appreciate of children playing in the temple. However, Soppa, once again changed my perspective by infusing a village insight. He shared his childhood memories when the village temple used to the favourite play area for all kids in the village. With time, a lock was installed and the door was closed and the children lost their favourite play area.
The back side of the temple bore oil stains and overall it was not a well maintained temple. We soon guessed the reason why. We found a B&W photo of a couple hung just above the maruti idol. We guessed that these were the private care-takers of the temple and since their demise the temple is in ruins.

Manpadale Maruti Temple

The temple is in a run down state and looked like no one was taking care of it.

 The time was 5.30 pm and we had successfully covered Samarth Sthapit 11 Maruti temples in one day from Chafal. There was a small kirana shop just outside the temple and Soppa took some loose peppermint toffees. They rekindled my childhood memories and to my amusement the peppermint toffees had a one rupee emblem embossed on them too.

T for Toffees, T for Timeless memories



Talbid, Karad – Hambirrao Mohite Samadhi

Soppa was excited and eager to visit the Samadhi at Talbid as he had heard that there was a 6 feet long sword of the legendary general preserved at the Samadhi. We road to the Talbid Samadhi was beautiful and lined with greenery. We parked the car beneath a mammoth banyan tree. The Samadhi was neither big nor spectacular and didn’t inspire or create an atmosphere that would inspire visitors and make them aware of the exploits of the legendary warrior.

Soppa at Hambirrao Mohite Samadhi at Talbid

Soppa enquired about the sword with the locals outside the Samadhi and got no satisfactory repy. All kept denying that there is a sword here at Talbid. We had seen another Samadhi place just behind this new Samadhi. We circled the place and went behind only to discover another beautiful marble temple. We took darshan and went to the old Samadhi place which we found locked. However, we saw a pedestal inside that clearly suggested that it held a sword once upon a time.
Unable to find the sword, we decided to grab a bite and downed two Wada-Pavs to compensate for our missed lunch. Soppa enquired at the Wada-pav stall about the sword and the guy told him that the sword was in Talbid but the ancestors have moved it to Satara lately. Finally we had the info we wanted, however Soppa couldn’t see the sword for which we had travelled to Talbid.

Back at the car, we spent some time appreciating the huge banyon tree and found out that the big tree had given birth to two more banyan trees and the entire expanse of branches were actually three trees joined together. Nature always amazes me and it was no different this time around. However, the time in our watches indicated that it was time to move and we finally headed for Pune around 6.30 pm in the fading light of the day.

Mammoth Banyan tree outside the Samadhi @ Talbid

Kandi Pedhe

Our departure was not without its fair share of excitement. We both wanted Kandi Pedhe, a specialty from Satara. Soppa called his friend in Pune and got informed that there are Ashok Modi Kandi Pedhewale outlets on the highway and we have to go beneath the flyover at Satara. Accordingly we kept driving and before Satara approached I noticed an Ashok Modi outlet on the road beneath the flyover on which we were travelling. This place was a good 5-7 km before the city of Satara and we rued the missed opportunity. However, Soppa noticed a hoarding that said there’s another Modi outlet at the Toll naka ahead. Not taking chances, we still shopped some kandi pedhes from dhabas on the way, in case the Ashok Modi outlet didn’t exist at the toll naka.
To our relief, there indeed as a Modi outlet at the toll naka and I happily went and purchased a good quantity of special kandi pedhes for myself and for Soppa.

Beautiful truck art infuses energy in your travel on a highway

In short, the ending was sweet. On our way back Soppa suddenly expressed his dissatisfaction with the trip. His ruse was that since we were constantly traveling and he was driving he didn’t get enough time to chat and enjoy, especially after our meet after donkey years. But there was nothing that we could do now and I reasoned that we both knew beforehand that this tour required extensive and hectic travel. Even then he seemed unhappy. By 8.30-9 pm Soppa dropped me at Vadgaon flyover. Fate favouring me, I immediately got a bus to Swargate and from there another connecting bus back home.

Looking back, this much awaited Samarth Sthapit 11 Maruti tour was made possible only due to Soppa. He had readily agreed without any ado and had completed the tour even skipping his lunch at my behest. During the journey and at various places he had enriched me with niche village insights, farming tools and his knowledge about trees.

Above all, a big thanks to Ramdas Swami and Maruti bappa for removing all obstacles from our path and gifting us his darshan and an experience of a lifetime.

Jai Jai Raghuveer Samarth