Rajmachi Trek

RAJMACHI TREK EXPERIENCE
March 2006


After our Dalhousie Trek in January, we were raring to go to another quick fire trek.
The awesome foursome, one from which was a 62-year old Retd. Colonel, zeroed in on Rajmachi, a magnificent fort off Karjat. People from Mumbai go via Karjat (climb all the way) while those from Pune climb via Lonavala (20 km walk).
On Saturday, we camped at one of our co-trekkers house in Kalyan and left the next day morning by the first 5.30 am Karjat local. As the train chugged along a cool breeze lifted our spirits a notch higher. We reached Karjat by 6.30 am and a 5 min. rick ride took us to a place called Kondivade. From there we took a share rick, called tum tum, till the base of Rajmachi, a small hamlet called Kondane. The tum tum normally chages Rs. 10/- per person. However, since there were no passengers so early in the morning, we had to shell Rs.100/- for four of us.

On reaching Kondane we hired a guide, a 7th standard kid with as nimble feet as a deer. Mind you, this was not child exploitation. We were soon joined by yet another guide,
his 6th standard friend. Here we were, decked in hunter shoes and trekking boots while these two kids were as much or more comfy in their rubber slippers. We started the ascent from Karjat side at 7.30 am. The beginning was quite pleasant and we were enjoying every step of our climb. The path is marvelous even in the summers as it passes through lush green trees. We continued at quite a steady speed and soon found ourselves panting as the climb got steeper with every passing hillock. The little guides informed us that there were 3 more hillocks to be captured till we reach the village on top.
Our first and only halt was for breakfast, at an underground water tank. Unfortunately we spotted a dead monkey floating in the ‘kund’ and so couldn’t taste the cool nectar. After a hearty bread and butter breakfast we picked speed and reached the village on top at 10.15 am, roughly 2 - 2½ hours of climb.

The village, home to 200 odd people, is a small cluster of houses, each geared up to provide food and accommodation to trekkers who frequent the fort 24X7X12.
Our Colonel had an acquaintance from his earlier visit there and we touched our bases in his typically village type, cow dung smeared courtyard. A hot tea and gallons of water later we proceeded towards the two famous ‘machis’, Manoranjan and XXXXXXX

Manoranjan is the highest point on the fort. There are caves on the way. One look inside the dark caves and you won’t step a foot in. It’s like you are staring in a black hole. As your sight adjusts to the dark surroundings you realize that they are actually huge chambers where one can easily spend a night. Huge boulders, serving as steps, lead you to the top of Manoranjan. The view is simply indescribable. It’s a bird eye view in true sense. The house from where we came up looked like a tiny spec. So did the temple and pond next to it. Strong winds blew, unhindered.

A short cut led us to the other ‘machi’, equally fascinating and no less spectacular. It had two open tunnels, meant as escape routes. We couldn’t dare step inside any of them in spite of the easy looking staircase. Thoroughly content, we descended for lunch carrying knots of wind in our hair. A sumptuous lunch awaited us at Kalu’s house. The garma garam ‘nachani bhakris’ that melted in your mouth, the unique ‘pithala’ and delectable sabji was a lunch to savour and devour.

Barely had the taste settled in our mouth that our Colonel gave the clarion call to head down. It was already 2.30 pm and his experience said that the descent will take more time since the soil was loose at many places. How right he was! We started slowly and cautiously. The summer heat was also getting to us. The halts started increasing and fatigue set in. We all were sweating like a pig. Halfway down, I experienced first of the many cramps to besiege me. On our way down we visited the ‘lenya’. This time the water was crystal clear and deep freezed. It’s almost like an energizer drink. Our guides had warned us about a beehive nearby. The story goes, ”Once a group of trekkers took a halt and started cutting onions there, oblivious of the beehive. The onions irritated the bees and they attacked in full force. The trekkers took to their heels. To escape the bees’ fury they completely submerged themselves in a pond. Not to let go, the bees kept hovering above the water till the trekkers came out, and then resumed their stinging attack.” Now, did we have a choice than to be extra cautious?

By then cramps were a regular feature and so was dehydration. The descent thereafter was slower and we reached base around 5.30 pm, completely exhausted. After paying our young guides a princely amount of Rs.80, we reached Karjat station with memories of the trek still fresh. And our aching legs made sure it remained so.

That’s Rajmachi, truly a trekker’s paradise. Be it during the baking hot summers, in pouring rains or in chilly winters, Rajmachi is one fort that tops the agenda of every trekker. Head along!


Dhaval :)